Frosty’s List Helsinki
“I only want to live in peace, plant potatoes and dream!”
Finland is one of my home countries. It is the land of a thousand lakes and the birthplace of The Moomins (check them out if you haven’t heard of them). Helsinki is the capital and largest city in Finland, yet it is walkable and in such close proximity to nature! The city is filled with design gems, small cafes and a rising food scene. Not to forget all the public saunas you will have access to! This time of the year is popular for many tourists visiting Finland as it turns into a true winter wonderland when snow covers the country. I would however personally recommend going in the summer months (June-August), when the endless days take over, the lakes aren’t freezing cold and the Finns have a smile on their faces after a dark and long winter.
Here is my recommendation on how to spend a long weekend in Helsinki. Full disclaimer, many of these places are my old favourites I return to after moving abroad over 10 years ago, there are some new-comers in there too!
Day 1 - Settling in and a trip to a Sauna
You can walk most places in the centre of the city. It truly is a small capital city! Otherwise, the public transport system is great! You can take a train from the Airport into the city centre - Helsinki Central Railway Station. Do not take a taxi from the Airport unless you are ready to pay a small fortune (approx 40-50 EUR), vs 5.7 EUR on the train.
In the summer months you will be able to cycle around the city on city bikes. The city is built for cycling, with cycle lanes all around the city, giving you a dedicated lane to ride your bicycle without worrying about getting hit by a car.
Especially if you have flown a long way to get to Helsinki, I would highly recommend visiting one of the many public saunas in the city. One of my favourites is Löyly Helsinki, located on the edge of Kaivopuisto park. Take Tram 1 seven stops from the city and walk a short distance. Löyly isn’t only a sauna, it is also an architecturally interesting building as well as a great spot for lunch and drinks with a massive terrace on the waterfront. If you have the guts to swim in the Baltic Sea, there are steps that lead straight into the sea from the sauna! Book ahead to avoid disappointment!
Other public saunas worth checking out: Allas Seapool (accompanied by large swimming pools), Kotiharjun Sauna (traditional wood fired sauna in the alternative Kallio neighbourhood) and Kulttuurisauna (“Culture Sauna”, wood fired sauna, no reservations). Most public saunas have separate women’s and men’s sections if not swimwear is accepted. Please always check the individual sauna protocols!
After a refreshing sauna and swim, take a short walk to Baskeri & Basso for dinner. They have a great selection of natural wines and bistro style food. The atmosphere is inspired by Parisian bistros with candle lit tables and a great soundtrack to accompany your meal.
Day 2 - A Sea Fortress, Markets & Food
If it isn’t horrendously horrible weather, head out to the Suomenlinna Fortress for a half day trip from Helsinki Market Square! Stroll down along the Esplanade Park and arrive at Helsinki Market Square which has stalls of traditional Finnish market foods, local artisan finds as well as tourist trinkets. If you fancy a snack look out for muikku (small fried fish), lihapiirakka (a meat pastry), lohikeitto (creamy salmon soup) and karjalanpiirakka (karelian pies - baked rice wrapped in pastry, traditionally served with egg-butter).
Suomenlinna, a short ferry ride from the market, is a UNESCO World Heritage site, dating back to 1748 it was built as a maritime fortress. Nowadays the fortress is a great location for a walk around the old barracks and even a picnic on the grounds! There are multiple cafes serving lunch and also a museum where you can learn more about the history. When you arrive at the fortress, check the ferry timetable to ensure you catch the return ride back to mainland!
When you are back on mainland, stop by Vanha Kauppahalli (the Old Market Hall) to find Finnish delicacies from seafood to pastries.
Helsinki has growing food scene and there are many outstanding restaurants to choose from. One I would highly recommend is Restaurant Nolla - a zero waste restaurant pushing the boundaries of sustainable contemporary cooking. Locally sourced ingredients, mindfully created dishes and a micro brewery all in one!
Head to Liberty or Death for some after dinner cocktails served in an intimate setting.
Day 3 - Art and Cafes
Helsinki has an interesting art scene with museums showcasing traditional art, design history and contemporary art. One of the most interesting haunts is Amos Rex, located in the historical Tennispalatsi building. An architecturally interesting museum building which hosts world-class changing exhibitions from TeamLab to Egypt of Glory. They also have an extensive online presence to follow once you have returned home.
After immersing yourself in art, walk to Cafe Esplanad to treat yourself to a good lunch and a giant cinnamon bun! They have traditional salmon soup and a great salad bar to choose from.
Helsinki has a ton of cafes to choose from! Many of them have food and pastries to choose from as well. Some of my favourite cafes are
Cafe Regatta - a small red hut close to the Sibelius Monument. It is so picturesque! A must visit if you have time.
Cafe Carusel - a cafe on the waterfront in Kaivopuisto park. A great spot to stop for a coffee or drink after a walk around the park.
Story - a cafe/restaurant, the original one is in the Old Market Hall.
Here are some tips for when you visit Finland and Helsinki:
Language
Hei - Hi
Hei hei - Bye
Kiitos - Thank you
Anteeksi - Sorry / excuse me
Kippis - Cheers
Kalja - Beer
Kahvi - Coffee
Viini - Wine
Sauna - Sauna
Jarvi - Lake
Foods you should try
Ruisleipa - rye bread, have it with butter, smoked salmon and cucumber on top!
Karjalanpiirakka - karelian pie
Leipajuusto - baked cheese, often served with cloudberry jam
Lohikeitto / kalakeitto - salmon soup / fish soup
Korvapuusti - Finland’s version of cinnamon buns
Pulla - a sweet bun with cardamom
Fazer chocolate - the original “Fazer Blue” block of chocolate is the best
Salmiakki - salty liquorice
Lonkero - a grapefruit and gin based drink originally created for the 1952 Summer Olympics
Kyro Gin - served with tonic, cranberries and rosemary
Places to stay
Hotel St George - A central location, holistic rooms and spa, great restaurant by Tomi Bjorck - my favourite hotel in the city, a Design Hotels member.
Hotel U14 - recently opened Autograph Collection hotel close to the Market Square and Esplanade Park
Hotel Lilla Roberts - Art deco style hotel within walking distance to all, a SLH hotel
Brands to look out for
Marimekko - bright colours and striking patterns - homeware and clothes
Iittala - homeware brand with distinct designs and glassware
Moomins - created by author illustrator, Tove Jansson, these philosophical creatures have become a worldwide phenomenon and you can see them all around Finland in various forms (mugs, clothes, toys, books etc)
Lumene - a Finnish skincare and makeup brand
Artek & Alvar Aalto - iconic design furniture
Good to keep in mind
Finns can be quiet, but once you get to know them they will be friends for life and will have some interesting stories to tell!
There is a thing called “every man’s right” in Finland which allows you to pick berries and mushrooms in any forest. Always respect the natural surroundings you are in!
Finland has some of the best tap water in the world!
Swim in a lake and wander in a forest - have mosquito repellent with you in the summer!
You can find all my Helsinki favourites through Google Maps: Frosty’s List Helsinki*
*all spots still operating at the time of publish of this posting. I do hope it stays that way! So many amazing businesses have had to close their doors!
